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I live in my RV fulltime, but I still work fulltime. Consequently, the RV stays parked most of the time. Knowing that this isn't healthy for it, so I start it up weekly, along with the generator. I also try to drive it once a month to keep the transmission and tires happy. The previous time I started the engine, it cranked a little slow but fired up after a couple of seconds. Didn't worry too much about it as it was cold outside (40ºF). I've only had this since last August, so I didn't have any prior experience starting a V-10 in anything but very warm weather. I had to fly out of town for my job, so the RV didn't get started for 2 weeks. When I returned, I tried to do the weekly ritual of running the motor and generator. The dash lights were VERY dim, and the engine didn't even begin to roll over. I pushed & held the auxiliary start button on the dash, but it had no effect. I took my Digital Volt Meter (DVM) and found that the chassis battery was at 6.7 VDC, but the house batteries were at 13.5+ VDC. The converter was working, but the chassis battery wasn't being charged. I opened the Battery Control Center (BCC) and found that a large solenoid is used to connect the two battery systems together to charge both sets or use the house batteries to assist in starting when the chassis battery is dead. Since I'm always plugged into shore power, and the converter is charging the house batteries, the solenoid had to be the culprit. I took my DVM and found that the solenoid was receiving 13+ VDC to engage, but I measured different voltages on the two buss bars it connects to. With some research online, and some previous experience shopping at a local marine supply center, I bought a replacement solenoid for $36. Below are a serious of photos and a description of the job. Only a few tools were needed, and some basic DC electronics experience. This isn't a detailed guide to show you how to do the job, just an idea of what it entails. All the usual disclaimers apply, attempt at your own risk! |
Click on any image for a larger view. |
Once the solenoid was replaced, I put the
BCC back together. Before applying power to the box again, I did a
full inspection of my work to make sure nothing was improperly
connected. I then reconnected all the batteries, followed by shore
power. I could hear the propane alarm from inside the coaching
whining. I did a reset, and it was happy.
It took a couple of minutes for the timing circuit to engage the
solenoid. Before it did, I pushed the Auxiliary Start Switch on
the dash, and I could hear the solenoid engaging. Once the timing
circuit automatically engaged the solenoid, the voltage on both
buss bars settled to around 13.5 VDC. Problem solved. Cost:
$36, 2 hours, a few scraped knuckles, 1 bottle of Stewart's Orange Soda,
and about a dozen cuss words. If you find that your circuit board is fried on a 1990 1/2 ~ 1996 model, you can buy a new replacement from Bud Weisbrod. He said the boards should be around $135 if he can get another shipment. Contact him for more details. Bud is a regular contributor on the Bounder Forum. |
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Last updated 02/27/22 All rights reserved. |